Riso Basics @ Outlet

I took a class on risograph basics at Outlet in Portland and it was such a great class.

First off: just the space is gorgeous, like you stepped inside of a rainbow. The space is covered in prints, ink, stickers, and any collage making tool you could dream of.

interior of Outlet, featuring a wall of prints, handmade banner, and a bookshelf full of riso ink and supplies interior of Outlet, underneath lofted area, featuring the wall of riso printers

The owners of Outlet, Kate Bingaman-Burt and Leland Vaughan, taught this class. They both teach at PSU in the graphic design department. Kate was filled with such an infectious energy and led the class with the energy of a pre-school teacher (complimentary).

First we learned about the history of Riso, then a bit about how the machines work, and then we had 15 minutes to fill out a mark making sheet to start testing how the printers behave!

test prints

We had access to old yearbooks, books of clip art, mark making tools of all kind. Truly? A collager’s paradise. We then got to make a print a few different ways:

  • In orange and with the boldest setting
  • In mint and in the pencil setting (picks up on lighter marks)
  • Double printed
  • Double printed, but upside down (you know, for fun!)

I had the honor of being the example print since I was the first done—they even gave me a button as an award.

From there, we had about an hour to work on our final 2 print piece! The plan was to do a 25 print run, each printed in mint and orange.

my original master copies of the two layers

These were my masters! I found this truly bizarre photo in a yearbook from the 1960s for what must have been a play? Unclear. I used india ink on the swirl texture to see what kind of watercolor-esque effects I could get out of the printer. And then at the last minute I decided I wanted a bit more control of the contrast and used the lightbox to trace the foreground layer, cut out the masking layers, and then glue them over my textured background in the (hopefully) right (enough) spots.

my prints

And here’s what it ended up looking like when printed! I was so glad I decided to just mask the man’s body and let the overlap of inks play with his cape.

Once we all had our 25 prints, we traded amongst the students and went home with 10 prints from each of our classmates! Here are a few of my favorites:

4 unique prints designed by classmates

I think this was one of my favorite classes of the year so far!

  • Great instructors
  • Quick turn around to seeing your art
  • Gorgeous space
  • Easily sharable pieces!

Collecting bookmarks

I have wound up with a collection of independent bookstore bookmarks.

I think it began when I was living in San Francisco and kept a running list of the bookstores I went to. I wanted to go to as many as I could. And of course I often bought a book and ended up with a free bookmark.

Eventually I had so many I decided I was collecting them. Eventually I collected so many I didn’t know how to store them.

So what if I were to digitize the bookmarks instead?

Check out my bookmarks page!

Allow me to re-introduce myself

I’ll be using AI on this website—to help me learn and experiment with using LLMs to build things outside of work. Mostly, this will be to add features and to maintain the blog.

I may use AI to help me brainstorm post ideas, help me edit my posts, or help me guide some stream of consciousness in a direction. But let me promise you now: these words will be my words. AI may augment my writing process, but it will not replace it.

It is important to me that these posts sound like you’re talking to me, Katie Hughes, a real thinking and feeling person.

You’ll also see my art on here! Most of my work is analog, and thus AI-free by nature. I’m not interested in generating art, generating logos, generating images. I am interested in learning analog techniques, boosting my graphic design skills, and developing my ability to draw.

I want to share the cool things I’m doing outside of the tech world here—because I want this blog to be for me as a whole person. Not as just a tech worker.

So as I revamp it, you’ll see a mix of art, life, AI thinking, side tech projects, side analog projects. It’ll be a mishmash. But know you’re hearing directly from me in my own little corner of the internet.

Katie's VSCode Cheatsheet

Assumptions!

Let’s get on the same page. This guide assumes you already have a prettier config and eslint config set up. This will be useful if you want to figure out how to make prettier and eslint Just Work™ in VS Code on save.

If you’re using only prettier and not eslint or eslint and not prettier, this should be easy to follow. If you’re using some other formatter/linter combo, this might still be helpful, but I’m not sure how you got here—welcome!

Extensions!

Alright, this is the easy part; let’s install some extensions! In the left sidebar of VS Code, you’ll find the Extensions tab. It looks like a square pizza with one slice being removed. Hovering over it, it says Extensions. Click that to search for the extensions you’re looking for.

Settings!

The easiest way to get to your settings has been the keyboard shortcut cmd+,. This actually works in all mac applications.

The settings for vscode come in a GUI but also as JSON. To access the JSON, while in the settings, find this file icon with an arrow in the upper right-hand corner:

Screenshot of VSCode's JSON settings icon

The alt text for the icon is “Open Settings (JSON)”. Clicking that icon will open your settings.json! Many settings can be set from the GUI, but some of the ones we’re dealing with today are only accessible by manually setting them in settings.json, so we’ll just edit there. (Plus, it makes copying and pasting nicer. But if you DO type it out, you’ll see some nice type-ahead added).

Eslint + Prettier!

First off, you’ll need to install these plugins:

And then I suggest the following settings:

{
  "editor.formatOnPaste": true,
  "editor.formatOnSave": true,
  "[typescript]": {
    "editor.defaultFormatter": "esbenp.prettier-vscode"
  },
  "[javascript]": {
    "editor.defaultFormatter": "esbenp.prettier-vscode"
  },
  "[json]": {
    "editor.defaultFormatter": "esbenp.prettier-vscode"
  },
  "editor.codeActionsOnSave": {
    "source.fixAll": true
  },
}

As you can see above, you can set a default formatter per language. If it isn’t working out as expected, I’ll often set editor.defaultFormatter on the top-level object to be esbenp.prettier-vscode. Of course, that makes every file use prettier, but hey, I’m usually working just in the JS ecosystem.

The setting source.fixAll can also instead be source.fixAll.eslint if it starts being too heavy-handed.

Other Plugins!

These are other plugins I almost always install when I’m using VS Code:

  • Alphabetical Sorter
    • I don’t use this consistently, but when I need it, it is so handy.
  • GitLens
    • I love seeing the context of when something was last edited and what that commit was while looking at code and trying to investigate an issue.

Other settings!

These are my favorite basic settings for VS Code:

{
  "editor.scrollBeyondLastLine": false,
  "editor.minimap.renderCharacters": false,
  "editor.renderWhitespace": "boundary",
  "editor.tabSize": 2,
  "editor.rulers": [80]
}

Painting Ikea Furniture

When it comes to home decor, being stuck inside our own spaces during a global pandemic has mostly driven each of us one of two ways: either wanting to eliminate visual noise around them OR amping up how their personality is reflected in their space. If you want to change something up, paint is always a really easy way! But when you have a laminate piece, popularly found at IKEA, painting requires a bit more prep.

What is laminate?

Remember when you were a kid and things would be laminated? It’s the same idea here—a laminate finish means there is a coat of plastic on top of usually a paper design on top of particleboard. For my 3 pieces, the paper was just white paper but sometimes it’s a faux wood design.

Plastic is hard to paint because it is a non-porous material. That is, there’s nothing for the paint to adhere to. So we gotta alter the surface!

Step 1: Scuff sand

The laminate surface is really smooth so step one of altering the surface is just honestly scraping it up. We have two options here:

  1. What I thought a scuff-sand was before I researched it for this post: I used a low grit (80) sandpaper and quite a bit of elbow grease to really make sure I was creating a rough surface for the primer to grab onto.
  2. What a scuff-sand really is: High grit (120+) sandpaper with a light touch. I’d try this on my next piece to see how it changes things!

Step 2: Primer

Sometimes primers are to help conceal a base color but in this case, we’re adding extra grippiness for your final paint! You want to look for a bonding or adhesion primer (from what I can find it seems to be two words for the same thing).

I was able to find Zinsser Bulls Eye Zero primer at my local hardware store. Zinsser Bulls Eye 123 also gets a good rep online.

Two tips here:

  1. I suggest doing 2 coats of primer. It’s hard to tell with white primer on white laminate, but I noticed after the first coat of primer there were some parts that still repelled the primer a little bit—parts where the laminate still shone through. Two coats provided the coverage I needed!
  2. Wait a LONG time between coats. This is the foundation and each coat seals in the previous layers even more—meaning that if the previous layers haven’t fully cured, they probably never will. This is usually what causes a painted surface to be easily scuffed. My primer said to wait three hours, so I did that on my first piece and it really wasn’t enough. I then started waiting 5 hours and was really happy with the results.

Image of Zinsser Bulls Eye Zero primer with primed door in background

Step 3: PAINT!

Now that you’ve put hours into prep, it’s time to do the fun part—applying the color! No extra tips for this step that you haven’t already read. Waiting 5 hours between each coat is beneficial here as well.

Number of coats is up to you, with two coats minimum. In my experience, two coats is fine for lighter colors and I’ve done up to four for darker colors.

Before putting anything on the painted piece of furniture, especially another painted surface, I like to wait a solid 2-3 days to really make sure things are cured.

Two closet doors painted black

Left as an exercise to the reader

One question left to you is do you want to paint your piece while it is assembled or while it is disassembled? Here’s what I’ve found:

  1. Shelves are easier to paint while in the piece of furniture. Think about it: you’ve painted 2 layers of primer, and at least 2 layers of paint, and then double that for both sides of the shelf. So perfectly sized shelves won’t fit! On top of that, if any paint drips down the sides of your shelf, that adds an extra layer. Painting the shelves in does fix them pretty permanently BUT it eliminates the need to sand them to make sure they fit again.
  2. Doors are easier to paint off of the piece of furniture. This is less complicated to explain—laying the door on the ground (or propped up on something) makes it easier to access all the sides you need.
  3. And then my least opinionated of these: I’ve been painting the body of the furniture fully assembled. This is partly due to the shelves rule, these pieces are made to slot together at the current thickness that they are and adding paint may change how easy it is to put things back together. But it’s also due to the fact that I’m painting inside my apartment with a cat roaming around and being able to paint something while it is standing up just saves floor space.

Areas to explore

Every piece I do, I learn something and adjust it for the next time! Now that I’ve done three laminate pieces, there are a few things I want to alter and experiment with:

  1. A proper scuff-sand. Like I said above, I learned while researching this post what an actual scuff-sand is. I had previously just kind of guessed but now that I know, my next piece will be prepped with fine-grit sandpaper and a light touch!
  2. Using a self-leveling additive. This is something I’ve seen getting popular on Instagram & tiktok as a way to eliminate brush strokes. It basically thins the paint out a little bit so the paint has a chance to spread out to a smooth surface before painting. (Note: you can skip this if you sand between coats! But since it is me and my cat inside an enclosed space, we don’t really do that.)
  3. Adding a top coat. While my painted laminate is getting more durable, from what I can tell adding a top coat (or sealer) will take it to the next level. They dry into a much harder surface than your traditional paint does. Based on reading a list of The Best and Worst Sealers for Painted Furniture from Lovely Etc., I’m very curious to try General Finishes High Performance Top Coat.

Final results

The three pieces I have so far painted have been a Billy Bookcase, a Narrow Billy Bookcase, and a 2-door Kleppstad.

With the Kleppstad, I went beyond just painting. I used trim and cane webbing to give it a few extra details. No jigsaw cuts here, just black paint to create a dark background!

Image of Zinsser Bulls Eye Zero primer with primed door in background

Image of Zinsser Bulls Eye Zero primer with primed door in background

Image of Zinsser Bulls Eye Zero primer with primed door in background

Image of Zinsser Bulls Eye Zero primer with primed door in background

Image of Zinsser Bulls Eye Zero primer with primed door in background

Image of Zinsser Bulls Eye Zero primer with primed door in background